Shalimar L’Essence by Guerlain

I was craving a Shalimar flanker, and when L’Essence launched for the centenary, I bought it without a second thought. On my skin, iris dominates, balanced beautifully by very subtle touches of vanilla and frankincense; although frankincense isn’t usually my strong note, it works well here. Over time, it becomes powdery, reminding me of Chanel 19 Poudre (which shares iris), but whereas that one tired me out, this does not. It also smells like Diptyque Duelle EDP at first, but L’Essence lasts longer and projects more. I would ask for a bit more projection, but the longevity on skin is good for me. If you are fans of Shalimar and collect versions, this is a must-have.

Shalimar L’Essence Eau de Parfum Intense (100th Anniversary Edition). Top notes: frankincense, almond, bergamot. Heart: iris, amber, rose. Base: vanillin, opoponax, Madagascar vanilla, musk, benzoin, tonka bean, leather. I only notice what it says. Upon application, I perceive dark vanilla with frankincense giving it an oriental nuance and a slight unisex air. That phase lasts a short while before the perfume transforms. When the frankincense fades, sweet, creamy, powdery vanilla emerges. The iris adds that elegant powder that refines the vanilla. In the base, a soft citrus touch of bergamot keeps it luminous. The dry-down is lovely: enveloping vanilla, powdery iris, and balanced citrus. It is linear and I like it that way. It is one of those perfumes you constantly smell on your hand. It is not a pastel-style gourmand vanilla; it is elegant, warm, and deep. The longevity has impressed me, lasting many hours with a comforting trail. It wraps you like a cloud. At first, it leans towards unisex with a masculine nuance, but later it balances into authentic unisex. If you like vanilla, enjoy it.

Certainly it is a simplified version of the original Shalimar without falling into reductionism. It is a vanilla-focused version, yet complex, dense at the opening with bursts of the OG. Light facets of leather are felt, typical of Guerlain’s tincture. It feels ambered without falling into the balsamic nature of the original, with a velvet sensation from the iris and rose. It is a modern Shalimar with greater public acceptance, but it does not stop being elegant, sophisticated, and mature, which means it is still not for everyone.

That deliberately artificial vanilla, that polished, theatrical chemical note, far from annoying, seduces. It is a more airy Shalimar than the classic EDT I own, less dense but with projection that walks on its own. It arrives sooner and lingers later. The opening is a well-served cocktail: bright bergamot, soft almond, frankincense hinting. In the heart, powdery iris mixes with rose and amber like expensive makeup under warm light; the ethylvanillin does not hide and says ‘yes, I am synthetic… so what?’. The base embraces with Madagascar vanilla, benzoin, and balsamic tonka bean, enveloping, with barely hinted leather giving character. A beautiful version, worthy of any well-curated collection.

Lots of vanilla and lots of iris, plus a pinch of frankincense. Translated: if you are looking to smell like a lady’s sweet vanilla, this is your perfume. Short longevity, moderate trail.

It lasts quite a while although with a sensation of low projection. More focused on vanilla, reducing the Shalimar DNA slightly. I stick with the old one from afar.

A perfume paying homage to the centenary of a legend. From the first spray, the DNA of classic Shalimar is perceived, reinterpreted with ultra-high-quality velvety vanilla, enveloping sophistication, and almost hypnotic. It is an embrace between past and present, a rejuvenated Shalimar that keeps its soul but expresses itself with new delicacy, more intimate and close. Characteristic traits like vibrant citrus, animalic nuance, or smoky base are attenuated, giving way to a refined, luminous, and profoundly elegant vanilla. A reinterpretation that softens contours without erasing the essence, preserving luxury and nostalgia. I always struggled to find the right moment for classic Shalimar; I admired it but found it too sober and stately. Since discovering L’Essence, I cannot stop wearing it. It is of extreme elegance and surprisingly versatile, adapting effortlessly, as if destiny decided we belong together.

Bought it blindly to add to my collection. If Shalimar was love in the time of the Taj Mahal, L’Essence is love today. It has that unmistakable DNA but without the invasive patchouli; here the vanilla is at its peak, with the citrus note almost imperceptible. It is intense, rich and dark, avoiding anything pasty. After the first impression, it becomes elegant and silky. As it dries, the rose and iris appear, velvety and youthful. The musk gives a sensation of an embrace, second skin. It evolves warm and woody, very modern. It doesn’t last as long as others, but for those four hours it smells from a distance, then becomes intimate and present.

It carries the Shalimar DNA and comes out on top. I loved that massive yet domesticated vanilla, the ever-present quality of Guerlain. If it is Shalimar, how could it not be?

Arrived yesterday and, of all the Shalimars I know, this is my favourite. The DNA is there but toned down; in the first hours it smells like Cuir Beluga (a fantastic fragrance). The vanilla Guerlain uses is from another planet.