Bois Talisman by Dior

A total work of art; the concept and execution are flawless. The accord of the three vanillas in Bois Talisman is unique; I’d never tried anything like it. It performs hugely, lasting days on clothes. Many people give it hate, but I don’t understand why. I tested it in Paris alongside Tobacolor and Vanilla Diorama, and within 20 minutes I knew this was the winner. I also tried Vanille Fatale from Tom Ford or Vanilla 28 from Kayali, but nothing surpasses this vanilla accord. Some say it’s a modern take on the iconic Grand Soir, and that seems great to me. I feel Kurkdjian and Dior want to distance themselves from critics; not all are bad, but there’s a toxic community in the perfume world. Of course, like in cinema, music, or fashion, there are always complaints, but also hits. Don’t throw everything in the same bucket. The price seems high, but it’s a private collection of luxury perfumery. Besides, it’s cheaper than the new Centaurus from Creed, which, by God, cost nearly €350 and was a terrible version of Red Tobacco. I didn’t like it at all. Perhaps few have it here in Chile, but I was lucky to find it in Europe two weeks after launch. It was out of stock in many Parisian boutiques, but I managed to get it. Lucky for me.

Let me see where to start… and no offence taken. Sweet opening, spicy custard-style vanilla, settling into an incense base with sweet woods from the cedar, perhaps there’s sandalwood giving it that burnt wood touch. Fi. Definitely a good scent… Now comes the bad… With By The Fireplace from Maison Margiela and Ameer Al Oudh from Lattafa on the market, what need is there to fork out that amount of money for this Bois Talisman from Dior? The Lattafa perfume is practically the same; even untrained noses might think they’re knock-offs, and just as with other Dior scents where you notice sublime quality like in Ambre Nuit Esprit de Parfum, here there isn’t, and I’m sorry. A few months ago Dior was my favourite house, not for its ingredients but for creating unique and differentiated aromas that set themselves apart from the rest of commercial perfumery. Mr Kurkdjian has come to Dior to sink the ship… his last launches have been a disaster: Eau Forte, Dior Homme Parfum 25, and now this, a perfume that adds absolutely nothing new and, even though it’s from Dior’s private range, is far from the word exclusivity. It’s a good perfume without a doubt, clear as day, but redundant in my view. Another disaster. Scent: 9, Sillage: 7, Originality: 2, Value for money: 5. Conclusion: With By The Fireplace and Ameer Al Oudh on the market, a resounding NO.