Santal 33 by Le Labo

I want to start by saying this will be my first review and that this fragrance inspired me to write it. I don’t know much about notes or their behaviour, but I am a person who has vibrated with fragrances for about twenty years. What Santal 33 has given me is something no other fragrance has made me feel. Before buying it, I had several bottles of Energetically New York and the Ganso Bravo Monsieur and at least these two, I think, have nothing in common, they may have similar notes but the fragrance behaves very differently, simply they are different smells). I can only describe my experience with the following words: Every time I use it, I have the sensation of being in a starry night in the desert, untamed, and after travelling for days, a pause by the warmth of a campfire laughing with friends, knowing that with the first light the adventure continues. Every time I focus on the fragrance, it inspires me a sense of calm and confidence, as if everything is going to be fine. Any scent that makes me feel like this is a 10 in my books, wish I could know more perfumes like this, so complex and that inspire in this way… Until that happens, it will probably be my favourite fragrance. As for the juice itself, objectively, the only thing I can distinguish is how creamy it feels when smelled with woods I can’t distinguish but which seem mysterious and intriguing to me, and at the same time a bit of leather, like an old jacket, in the best possible sense. By the tenth hour, at the sunset of the fragrance, I feel a warmth on the skin which I suppose is the cardamom and a vanilla I don’t know if is declared; from then on I feel the fragrance saying goodbye leaving a floral and sweet remnant, perhaps the violet? Which reminds me of the smell of a woman left on a pillow the next morning. Until I knew Santal 33 I never imagined a perfume as a form of art… The bloody bastard is Frankl Voekl. And the experience of buying the fragrance is really unique, the fact of meeting the person who will mix it for you and seeing the process then waiting a week for the bottle to be ready to use makes it undoubtedly something even more special.

I bought a decant just to get rid of the ‘weight’ of trying it. The first impression was negative; I thought I’d never wear something like this. Without judging, the vibrant sandalwoods flooded my day. One cold night I decided to apply it to see if it could provoke a reaction or why it’s placed on an imaginary pedestal, or if it had become fashionable because of a tribute song. Walking through the urban night, with smells of burnt rubber and tobacco, the aroma projected exquisitely on my nose. It was vibrant and sparkly, acting against the dark backdrop of nightclubs. I wasn’t in an elegant venue, but it adapted perfectly. I smiled imagining how, in those club nights, the Mexican artist who surely frequents them, gets soaked in that sensation of interacting with their scent and demonstrating versatility that I never saw coming from its declared notes. Finally, there I found that ‘charm’ that young people like me seek, perhaps forcing the taste and ending up finding it amidst its ostentation. I wouldn’t buy it for the price, but its rise and excess could be justified. That night it dressed me and trapped me in the character that boasts of that energy.

It’s an absolute beast of a quality. Even though its DNA is the most copied, nobody matches it with the quality of its ingredients. It opens with a light, natural cardamom, not spicy, just on the initial burst. The star is the sandalwood, which gives creaminess and a milky touch. There’s a clean leather, cedar with iris and violet for a woody, powdery heart without being heavy. Amber and papyrus form the base. It’s extremely versatile, suitable for almost any occasion. On fresh days, up to 20°C, you can wear it all day without issue. It has good concentration and lasts around 12 hours. The trail is special; not invasive but noticeable. At first, it might feel a bit ‘heavy’, then it moderates, but you always notice it. A man or a woman could love it, and the price is fair for what it offers. You can smell it in the street, especially in areas with a certain class, but it’s not a ‘seen-it-all’ scent. It’s refined and not offensive, though some might be scared off; but if they smell it on someone else, they struggle not to say it smells delicious.

Santal 33 isn’t my absolute favourite, but calling it ‘overrated’, ‘horrible’ or ‘a bad fragrance’ is foolish. This piece aims to win the wearer over with sandalwood as the star, accompanied by a harmonious blend that gives a soft leather and creamy sensation. Le Labo has a clear identity, focusing on scents with a strong note and an air of simplicity. Is that wrong? Absolutely not. There are fragrances with loads of notes, like Angel by Mugler or Amarige by Dior, and none is superior; they are works that need understanding. Those who love sandalwood fall in love; it has quality ingredients and good longevity. As for me, who can’t stand sandalwood dominating, I wouldn’t recommend it. But far from being bad, Santal 33 deserves to be valued for what it is. If only what we like is good, what’s left for the world of perfumery?

A polarising aroma; it may not even please sandalwood lovers; it’s a peculiar and ‘rough’ interpretation. The opening smells of bright eucalyptus, accompanied by citrus although they aren’t heard alone. It’s a bomb of ISO E Super; I think half of it is this molecule, and there’s lots of ambroxan; it gives duration and translucent character, crystallising the white floral and boosting the violet, with an overdose of ionones to masculinise. Carrot seeds are perceived, adding dryness. The leathery note is minimal and the protagonist: the sandalwoods, a mix of quality sandalwood with synthetic molecules like potent javanol. Masculine perfume, mature, elegant, versatile, and with undeniable character.

I smelled it in the office without knowing what it was, and it made my head ache for several days until I gathered the courage to ask my smelly colleague what perfume he was wearing; he said it was ‘Santal 33’ as if expecting congratulations; the truth is I could only say ‘ahh ok thanks’. Today I say that if you like the smell of a peed mattress, this perfume is for you. Featherweight must be laughing every time they buy a bottle, something like a massive but private joke.

Many who listen to Peso Pluma are young, and this fragrance doesn’t fit a party-loving profile. It’s elegant, for special occasions. Saying it’s horrible or just hype doesn’t seem fair. Niche perfumery is expensive; there are cheaper options, but for someone coming from designer fragrances, it can be a challenge. There are always decants or inspired versions. The important thing is that it smells incredible and, as the song says, conveys luxury.

I gave it several opportunities and didn’t like it, but as I always say, you must know the copies to appreciate the original. I got Le B’eau Paradise Garden by Jean Paul Gaultier and didn’t buy it for taste but because it was fashionable; little by little it reminded me of Santal 33, but I must say Santal 33 has greater quality, feels more natural, and has a double meaning in its scent; that makes it special.

What is most perceived is a somewhat fresh opening with floral notes and when it dries it’s much leather and woods, coming to remind a bit of Ombre Leather but without jasmine, rather woody leather. I see the opening as quite unisex, but when it dries I feel it’s very, very masculine 👋🏻. IT’S NOT THE BIG DEAL REALLY, THERE ARE MANY CLONES THAT SMELL THE SAME OR ALMOST IDENTICAL 🫤

A fragrance with too much hype; people wear it only because they listen to corridos, and besides, the scent isn’t that good. If you use it, congratulations, but you can’t wear it unless you have a history of perfumes. No one uses it and pretend to like it, but in reality, they haven’t even smelled it.

Opens sharp on wood with a touch of talc that’s in fashion. It reminds me of Terre d’Hermes with its earthy/orange and talc-like notes. As it dries down, the violet and sandalwood emerge alongside the wood until the end. It lasted 6-7 hours. I don’t detect the leather note at all.

It’s one of the luxury perfumes that, although it has an almost exact clone (Bravo Monsieur), has a unique touch. Santal has a sweetness that makes the difference for me to like the original and not the clones. The charm is the trail, not so much smelling it on skin.

On first spray, it hit me straight in the brain with Mezcal 400 Conejos; it has that smoky, ash-like touch which is super curious and pleasant. At first, it’s quite floral with a feminine air, but after a while it clearly becomes more masculine.

It smells strange to me. The iris overpowers everything, a note I adore at its best when mixed with a sharp citrus touch. It smells very much of freshly cut grass with a predominant underlying iris.

Wear this on a rainy day walking down the street with that aroma of wet earth; you’ll spend the whole day sighing. Look, I have 20ml of this and a great dupe that isn’t here called Stallion 53.