Ultimate by Baldessarini

I was expecting something different given the notes. There’s a hint of Hermes’ ADN after the initial alcohol hit. It’s a very safe bet, almost ‘safe mode’, with slightly generic nuances but it smells good. I can’t pinpoint if it recalls a specific fragrance or is a blend; the ingredients and accords are very recognisable. A citrus note, another with that mineral air of Terre, the amber side which is generic and mid-range quality… and little more, it’s quite abstract. I was hoping for a bit more. The performance, influenced by those overdoses of heavy molecules, is hit-and-miss, but it doesn’t last long by any means.

It caught my eye. I have been distancing myself from designer launches for years; they smell to me like a room freshener. This is a pity; I am not looking for discontinued or extremely expensive niche scents; it would suit me (and my wallet) better to enjoy what is available in any perfumery. Ultimate is a bit loud and commercial, one cannot deny its DNA, but unlike 90% of similar fragrances, I like it. There is nothing wrong with using synthetics; not every day do you dine on Limoges china. It is a Rafale-esque leather that errs on the side of being spicy/rare, like the bite of Loewe 7 Anónimo, Spicebomb, or Bang: pink pepper that is heated and synthetic, numbing the nose and keeping you sniffing at its creamy nuances. It doesn’t drive me mad, but here it doesn’t bother: there are early 2000s formulas, patchouli, tender incense, nothing dry, and above all a delicious vanilla-amber at room temperature. It is perfectly balanced to avoid cloying, as if you added some sexy things, cigarette ash, incense, amber, and soft leather to a cold vanilla Danette, which in the end reminds of nutmeg or cardamom. The leather is evident, not animal or tanned, because it is muddied by the rest. A rich perfume, the idea of a gentleman with class, synthetic yes, artificial too, but very pleasant. I didn’t know it was by Geza Schoen, but as it dried I caught a glimpse of Iso camouflaged with a balsamic and erotic cream. An attempt to update spicy barber-shop lotions: it opens during the day with a hedonistic after-shave taste and settles into a sexy, manly nocturnal paste, with woody sweetness and worn leather. A pleasant bastard to Loewe 7 Anónimo and Beckham Intimately. Projection and sillage are average, but it has been a surprise.

I found it a mishmash, even unpleasant. A mix of pepper, leather, balsamic and spicy notes, all soft but with an excessively synthetic feel. It has a certain originality and a reasonable price, but the perfume never smells good to me, apart from performing poorly, especially in trail. Another piece of cod that they want to pass off as ultra-modern and which has no substance or quality. Perhaps a bit more creativity than usual. And on top of that, the perfumer is Geza Schoen, the author of ‘nothing’ of interest and great hype. Not much more to add… Bleeehhhhh.

A solid choice from this house founded by a former Hugo Boss executive. It smells like a proper man, nothing for young people or millennials, with top-tier longevity and a decent trail for the price. Perfect for the office or business dealings. The animal leather note gives it an air of difficulty that not everyone will appreciate, but it definitely screams class and elegance. Flawless value for money.

I first encountered this via a Darkbeat sample. ULTIMATE DE BALDESSARINI opens with a gorgeous spicy citrus accord, reminiscent of certain CREED fragrances I have smelled. A zesty mandarin bursting with freshness and joy, paired with a bright, acidic green bergamot that dances playfully, spurred on by a crackling pepper that makes you wish to linger in this clean, fresh, sophisticated, and vibrant opening. It’s like a model strutting down a spring fashion runway, brimming with life, moving you to the rhythm of the linen and cotton of her vaporous dress. Gradually, this welcome transforms into an embracing floral heart of jasmine, magnolia, and freesia, avoiding any indolic tendencies, conveying clean, languid sensuality as if enjoying preliminary caresses. The scent evolves with the leisurely pace of a Bach cello suite: developing an idea without haste, savouring each olfactory measure. Leather emerges, very lightly animalic, enough to impose personality, warmed by incense and resins, narcotic turpentine vapours of labdanum that blend with a woody, leathery base with lingering citrus notes: a true delight. ULTIMATE DE BALDESSARINI is a fragrance of evolution and very well constructed, demonstrating that an economical price can teach lessons in composition and structure to perfumes costing double yet lacking in virtues.

I bought it blind and it turned out well; I didn’t even know it until I found it by chance at a good price and couldn’t let it slip away. I’ve been wearing it these past days and I love it. It opens with a classic barber-shop aroma, orange and fresh, with a slight spicy touch, simply exquisite, and although I am not a fan of this type, I have loved it. The projection is frugal, and within seconds floral notes are added with an incensed sensation, pretty and elegant. Gradually the base gains body: very light leather with earthy nuances of patchouli and an incensed aura with a sweet, dizzying touch. In general terms, they took a sober and classic aroma, gave it a twist to make it modern, urban, and relaxed, without abandoning the distinguished and elegant touch. Longevity is moderate, around six hours on skin, moderate trail, nothing spectacular but just enough to make a presence. An aroma for cold/temperate climates, suitable for day and night wear; although I don’t see it for summer daytime, it is a good option for a cool summer evening. A classic adapted to new times, with an urban vibe, perfect for the office or formal occasions with an informal touch. Those who love classic scents with a barber-shop accent should try it. I got it with an incredible offer: 18€ for 90ml, very satisfied. Highly recommended perfume.