Cuir InfraRouge by Maison Crivelli

It smells very much like Oud Maracuyà because they share that oud and leather base, but here the raspberry gives it a different twist compared to the acidic and sweet passion fruit. People have asked me what I’m wearing and have complimented it more than with Stallion or Hibiscus; honestly, this is my favourite 😅

Honestly, I was doubtful because I don’t usually like leather on my skin, but it surprised me and I loved it. I wouldn’t have bought it if I already had Flamenco Extrait with a similar olfactive profile. The opening is powerful leather with oud, but as it dries down, it becomes a fine leather sweetened by the raspberry. An ideal unisex scent for cold days or nights.

The first five seconds are sweet raspberry syrup with a fresh citrus touch and a subtle hint of cinnamon in the background. Then the leather rises, but it remains soft and elegant, clean. Afterwards, the vanilla and iris emerge, lowering the leather and blending everything perfectly. It smells like soft, fruity, and sweet leather with a touch of iris. I don’t detect the oud at all. It’s a very pleasant aroma, but I think the French brand didn’t take enough risks and came out something simple and for everyone, less complex than it could be. Compared to Oud Maracuyà, this doesn’t resemble it as much; the other has more nuances, an acidic passion fruit, more present leather, and a notable oud. Nevertheless, I like it immensely and give it a 9. I’m not sure if I should buy the full bottle; for now, I’m going with a 10ml vial.

The first five seconds are sweet raspberry syrup-like with citrus for freshness and a subtle hint of cinnamon. Then the leather rises, soft and elegant, very clean. Afterwards come the vanilla and iris, lowering the leather and blending everything perfectly. A soft, fruity, and sweet leather with iris. I don’t detect any oud whatsoever. It’s a very pleasant scent, but I think the French brand didn’t take a risk; it’s simple and will please everyone, it could have been more complex. People compare it to Oud Maracuja, but in my opinion, they are not similar. Of the two, I prefer Oud Maracuja: it has more nuances, is more original, with an acidic passion fruit, a more prominent leather, and an oud that is actually noticeable. Still, I like it immensely and give it a 9. I’m not sure if I’ll buy the full bottle; for now, I’m going with a 10ml vial.

A month ago, Cuir Infrarouge was only available at Selfridges for £205, a fortune. It tempted me, but reviews suggesting it was similar to Oud Maracuja held me back. Spending a fortune on a risk that it might be just another expensive scent wasn’t something I could afford. I passed. When it launched globally on 4 September, I no longer had an excuse. It was a Thursday, so I waited until Saturday to avoid being the first in the queue at the counter. I headed to Rinascente, performed the ritual of smelling it with the assistant, and the decision was made. Yes, it smelled like Oud Maracuja. Call me mad, but I bought it. Wearing it, I felt an enveloping bittersweet sensation. It smelled of a rainbow, yes, but very much like OM. Like dipping my head into a basin of Eden’s red fruits. I thought I’d made an impulsive purchase. I wore it on weekends hoping for a miracle. Not at work, because I like to go unnoticed; wearing it is like carrying a real-life Las Vegas neon light. My girlfriend said it bore no resemblance to OM. I would have loved for her to smoke so I could blame my own nose, but neither of us smokes. A few days later, the miracle happened. Normally I use four sprays, but CI is so potent that just two on the neck were enough. I was annoyed I couldn’t bring my wrist close to my nose. So I took a gamble: one on each side of the neck and one on the wrist. Boom! An explosion of wonderful leather. Leather, leather, and more leather. Perhaps it’s biochemistry, but suddenly it was a different fragrance, nothing like OM, if anything resembling Oud Stallion. The red fruits were in the background, harmonised with the leather, a perfect composition that makes me want to wear nothing else. Poor other perfumes. I don’t regret buying it, only not having done so sooner. Besides, it gave me a perfect excuse to jump to London. Ains.

A new gem from Crivelli and Jordi Fernández: leather and fruit in perfect harmony. Flawless. The leather dominates at first, but as it evolves, the raspberry jam balances everything with masterful skill. Osmanthus, iris, woods, and vanilla bring the show to a close. Irresistible. It’s mine now. 10/10. The performance is brutal, as with all Crivelli fragrances. If you like leather, you’ll adore it. If not, you might still. You’ll surely like it.

Upon trying Cuir InfraRouge, I found a spectacular blend of sweet and juicy raspberry with elegant and deep leather, accompanied by a dark oud and a touch of iris that softens everything. For me, it creates a fruity-dark, sophisticated, and balanced aroma, nothing rough, rather enveloping and luxurious. On my skin, it lasts 12 hours and projects intensely for the first 4 to 6 hours, leaving an interesting smoky halo. Due to its sweet, woody, and spiced character, I enjoy it more in cool climates, although I have also used it in the heat and was surprised by how well it works. What I highlight most is the quality of the raspberry–leather–oud–iris blend, its sexy and elegant character, and the potency. The only negative is its exclusivity and price, which make it less accessible, plus not everyone enjoys the subsequent smoky touch. For me, it’s a huge perfume hit: intense, refined, and with personality. If you have the opportunity to try it, I believe it can become one of the greats in your collection.

Extraordinary! A fruity opening, not cloying and refreshing. Red fruit with plenty of bergamot. Then the oud and MC-style leather emerge to close a work of art. For me, 10/10 on scent and longevity. There is no bad Maison Crivelli!