Cuir Zerzura by Giorgio Armani

There are perfumes that smell good and others that stop time in their tracks. Cuir Zerzura was the latter. I picked it up by accident at El Corte Inglés knowing nothing about the Armani Privé line and yet without realising it it smelled like my three obsessions: iris leather and rose. From the first spray everything clicked: the sophistication of the iris the romantic red touch of the rose and an elegant leather that holds it all together. It is dry powdery with a sweet-earthly base that is utterly addictive. It was an immediate buy. It didn’t just impress me; I felt it surpassed the joy Ombre Leather by Tom Ford had given me years ago. This perfume doesn’t just smell good; it moves you. The three dominant notes don’t fight; they complement and elevate each other surrounded by chords that act as bridges. It has a unique texture warm and subtly resinous with a sensual red tone. It is absolute luxury. As for performance? Complex. It lasts all day on the skin but it doesn’t project as one might expect; it stays close almost like a second skin. It isn’t there to fill a room but to draw someone near. It is subtle welcoming and elegant. When someone enters its radius it is hard not to want to smell them again. In my collection it is the sexiest perfume. I wear it for elegant dinners or special nights with my partner to feel attractive without losing sophistication. Is it unisex? Not like others. On my skin it is masculine earthy and dense; on my partner’s skin it is ethereal floral and feminine. It is chameleonic and that makes it special. Would I recommend it? Yes with caveats. It costs around €300 and isn’t for daily wear. But if you buy it and know when to use it it is an emotional investment worth every penny.

Violet leaf, iris, vanilla and leather are the notes that stand out most among the many in this composition. I bought it looking for something similar to Dior Homme Parfum, but it couldn’t be more different. This Cuir Zerzura is far more versatile and less invasive (moderate projection), yet extremely long-lasting on the skin (easily 10 to 12 hours). It opens with a very natural violet leaf and mandarin, followed by a prominent, soft and refined floral iris, finishing with a well-crafted leather and vanilla that leaves a lovely velvety sensation throughout its entire duration. I found some similarity with YSL La Nuit de L’Homme L’Intense EDP from the fourth hour onwards (respecting the difference in ingredient quality between Armani Privé and YSL). Recommended to all iris fans, especially those who dislike the cosmetic-style iris found in Dior.