Philosykos Eau de Parfum 2012 by Diptyque

What a pity… Another fragrance that smells supernaturally but fails on longevity. It’s the best fig perfume I’ve heard, sweet, cosy and sexy; you never get tired of smelling it. But after two hours, there’s nothing left. I can’t pay 135 euros for such an ephemeral experience. Above 70 euros I expect it to work, and here it’s almost double. For wasting money we already have Croxatto Man. It’s in sad company: from Chanel Allure Edition Blanche to L’eau de Neroli, passing by the old Polo Blue; they smell luxurious but don’t last. It seems that only those that last smell like gunpowder, like Joop, Kouros or One Million. Sometimes you have to choose between smelling as you want or being noticed by others (well, yourself, because after three hours you smell nothing). It’s a pity, it seems like a pattern. Luckily I only ordered a decant. For the scent I’d buy it tomorrow; for the longevity, never.

Diptyque is an underrated niche jewel with hyper-realistic aromas that transport you; the art of perfumery. Philosykos captures the entire fig environment: from the branch to the pulp. It is not fleshy fruit; it smells of plant, of green bush; it starts strong and green, evoking even the hairs on the stem in the sun, a herbaceous carpet that turns creamy, perhaps due to the fig or coconut used together. It lingers sweet, woody and creamy close to the skin. The drawback is longevity: it lasts five or six hours, with strong projection at first but then it relaxes and clings to the skin. It is for personal enjoyment, ideal in heat, not elegant but fits anywhere because whoever wears it feels it. It is worth trying; it is unique, and if you like it, close your eyes and let yourself be carried away.

It truly smells of a fig tree, without sweetness or fruitiness, barely woody, all green and realistic. It is the scent of fig trees at the end of summer; if you have ever walked through a wood or near home and caught that aroma… it is exactly that, achieved with mastery. I picture it as an intimate perfume, not to attract attention; it smells good but is very particular. It brings back memories of late summer rain, a warm and tranquil sensation, like in an English garden with young people enjoying themselves carefree.