Universal Oud by Zara

Looks like a cousin of Jo Malone’s Velvet Rose & Oud, but with more character: less clear, murkier, and with a less sticky, friendlier oud. The rose here is watery and earthy; if you love the note, it might lack punch, but if you’re not a fan, this will win you over. The projection was beastly, sometimes fading out only to reappear from nowhere. On my skin, which usually hates perfumes, I reckon it lasts all day if you apply it with gusto. Unisex, with a more masculine vibe than its inspiration. 7.5/10; I think it gets overlooked simply because it’s so agreeable.

Basically pure oud; in my opinion, it’s good for layering as it’s very basic on its own. It doesn’t smell like Jo Malone’s Rose Oud because the floral note is noticeable there, whereas in this Zara one, only the oud stands out.

A ‘meh’ experience: it doesn’t enchant me, lacks magic, and tells me nothing. It’s a very basic, dry, rough, and hard oud, without elegance. Although it’s unisex, it has a strong masculine touch; to me, it smells heavily of patchouli and projects a lot in the first hour until it becomes cloying, but by three hours it’s gone. It doesn’t matter that it’s from the Jo Malone line; I didn’t like it and it lacks quality. Try it in a store. Also, it doesn’t smell of rose at all, despite what Zara’s website says; it’s just patchouli and oud. There are better oud options at Zara, such as Perpetual Oud, which is delicate, feminine, and cheaper. I’ll give other scents from the Chapter 4 collection a chance.

I was really keen to try it because of Jo Malone’s nose. This oud and rose combo needs time to settle. The opening (15–20 mins) isn’t very pleasant: a medicinal synthetic oud and a rose that at times smells like mosquito repellent. But then the waters return to their course and it becomes a subtle second skin. The problem is the longevity and sillage, very poor compared to a Black Aoud by Montale or an Oud Touch by Frank Olivier. It leaves like a small bubble that envelops you, with little projection, lasting around 5 hours. For me, it’s a redundant purchase; it’s very similar to Maboussin’s Cristal Oud without the incense. It’s fine for enjoying without making a scene, but in that case, I prefer The Aoud by Mancera. Although Zara sells it as feminine, it’s clearly unisex.